How to Buy an Engagement Ring

http://weddings.about.com/od/weddingorengagementrings/a/top10rules.htm

If things go right, you'll only be buying one engagement ring in your lifetime. But an engagement ring is a big investment. With your lack of experience, how are you going to make sure you find one that your sweetheart likes but is still a wise purchase? Follow these ten steps, and you're sure to find the perfect engagement ring.

1. Determine Your Budget When a guy's shopping for an engagement ring, salespeople often do a sneaky thing – they make him think that the amount of his love is tied to how much he spends on a ring. Better to figure out how much you can afford to spend before you step foot in a store. The standard rule is two months salary – but – this is also a rule that the diamond industry created! However it's still a decent place to start, but then figure out your personal budget.
   
2. Pay Attention You're going to have to make a lot of choices – platinum or gold? Modern or traditional? Flashy or understated? It's easier if you've done your homework beforehand. Look at the jewelry your sweetheart wears on a daily basis – if it's all silver with intricate designs – look for a platinum engagement ring with intricate designs (often called filigree). If it's just a few heavy gold pieces, well, then go in that direction.
   
3. Choose a Stone While jewelers will sell you a preset ring, you can often get a better deal if you choose the diamond separately. It helps if you know what shape your sweetheart wants – round, pear, marquis, etc. The most classic shape is a round solitaire. More homework – read The Four Cs of Diamond Buying. You'll thank me later. Another money saving tip – look for a diamond with high color and cut, but with slightly lower clarity. Make sure you look at the stone with a jeweler's loupe (like a magnifying glass) – but most flaws (or "inclusions") can barely be seen even with a loupe.
   
4. Choose the Setting After you've got your stone, then comes the setting. You could go for simple with a solitaire setting, or you could add filigree, extra side stones, and other details. You can choose gold, white or rose gold, platinum, or even titanium.
   
5. Maximize Your Budget If your intended is always talking about huge diamond engagement rings, but two months of your salary wouldn't buy a Big Mac, you're going to have to stretch the budget. Ask for a stone with more surface area – it won't sparkle as much but it will look bigger. Ask for stones that are slightly less than the next carat (0.8 instead of 1 or 1.9 instead of 2) – the almost indiscernible difference can add up to big savings. Instead of a diamond solitaire engagement ring, consider a less expensive center gemstone (such as tourmaline, blue topaz, sapphire) flanked by two small diamonds. Choose white gold instead of platinum. And consider an antique engagement ring.
   
6. Get a Buddy Don't go into a jewelry store alone. They're scary places full of way too many choices. If you can, bring your sweetheart's best friend or mom along to help you choose. But if you're worried they'll spill the beans, bring a trusted buddy of yours. Make sure they have taste, or you'll be trying to propose with a ringpop. Also, assuming they like the person you're buying it for, this is a great moment to bond with your parents and get their advice.
   
7. Think About Bringing Your Sweetheart With You You'll lose the element of surprise, but you'll be sure that she likes her engagement ring. More and more couples are doing it this way.
   
8. Get a Quality Jeweler Ask for recommendations from friends and family. My advice is to stick to the mom and pop jewelers and try to avoid the national chains – they often sacrifice quality for mass marketing. But make sure the store is accredited by the Jewelers of America or is a member of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Before you buy, find out what the return policy is so that you can exchange it if you didn't do your homework properly.
   
9. Plan Ahead You may not be able to just walk out of a jewelry store with a ring. Not only will you need to save up for it, but depending on what you order it could take a couple weeks for them to set the stone, do any engraving, or even custom design your ring (like Brad Pitt did for Jennifer Aniston). So if you want to propose on a certain date, make sure you start working on the ring early.
   
10. Get it In Writing Would you buy a house without an inspection? No? Well then don't buy a diamond without an independent diamond-grading report from the GIA or the American Gem Society. It should include the 4 c's of color, cut, clarity and carat, as well as the shape and size. And, like your house, don't forget to get the ring insured.

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CoP Lecture 4: Film Theory 1

STEP 1: It's the Mind of the Audience

Change everything in your screenplay so that it is done for the audience.  Nothing is more important than how each scene is going to affect the viewer.  Make sure the content engages them and reels them in.  Use the characters to tease the viewer and pull them along desperately wanting more.

Hitchcock knew why people are drawn to a darkened theater to absorb themselves for hours with images on a screen.  They do it to have fun. In the same way people go to a roller coaster to get thrown around at high speeds, theater audiences know they are safe.  As a film director you can throw things at them, hurl them off a cliff, or pull them into a dangerous love story, and they know that nothing will happen to them.  They're confident that they'll be able to walk out the exit when its done and resume their normal lives.  And, the more fun they have, the quicker they will come back begging for more. (Gottlieb)

STEP 2: Frame for Emotion

Emotion (in the form of fear, laughter, surprise, sadness, anger, boredom, etc.) is the ultimate goal of each scene.  The first consideration of where to place the camera should involve knowing what emotion you want the audience to experience at that particular time.  Emotion comes directly from the actor's eyes.  You can control the intensity of that emotion by placing the camera close or far away from those eyes.  A close-up will fill the screen with emotion, and pulling away to a wide angle shot will dissipate that emotion.  A sudden cut from wide to close-up will give the audience a sudden surprise.  Sometimes a strange angle above an actor will heighten the dramatic meaning.  (Truffaut)

Hitchcock used this theory of proximity to plan out each scene. These varations are a way of controlling when the audience feels intensity, or relaxation.  Hitchcock compared this to a composer writing a music score - except instead of playing instruments, he's playing the audience!

STEP 3: Camera is Not a Camera

The camera should take on human qualities and roam around playfully looking for something suspicious in a room.  This allows the audience to feel like they are involved in uncovering the story.  Scenes can often begin by panning a room showing close-ups of objects that explain plot elements.

This goes back to Hitchcock's beginnings in silent film.  Without sound, filmmakers had to create ways to tell the story visually in a succession of images and ideas.  Hitchcock said this trend changed drastically when sound finally came to film in the 1930's.  Suddenly everything went toward dialogue oriented material based on scripts from the stage.  Movies began to rely on actors talking, and visual storytelling was almost forgotten. (Truffaut)  Always use the camera as more than just a camera.

STEP 4: Dialogue Means Nothing

One of your characters must be pre-occupied with something during a dialogue scene.  Their eyes can then be distracted while the other person doesn't notice.  This is a good way to pull the audience into a character's secretive world.

“People don’t always express their inner thoughts to one another," said Hitchcock, "a conversation may be quite trivial, but often the eyes will reveal what a person thinks or needs.”  The focus of the scene should never be on what the characters are actually saying.  Have something else going on.  Resort to dialogue only when it’s impossible to do otherwise. 

"In other words we don’t have pages to fill, or pages from a typewriter to fill, we have a rectangular screen in a movie house,” said Hitchcock.  (Schickel)

STEP 5: Point of View Editing

Jimmy Stewart looks at dog and then we see him smiling.  Jimmy Stewart looks at a woman undressing and then we see him smiling.  Those two smiles have completely different meanings, even if they are the exact same smile.

Putting an idea into the mind of the character without explaining it in dialogue is done by using a point-of-view shot sequence. This is subjective cinema. You take the eyes of the characters and add something for them to look at.

- Start with a close-up of the actor
- Cut to a shot of what they're seeing
- Cut back to the actor to see his reaction
- Repeat as desired

You can edit back and forth between the character and the subject as many times as you want to build tension. The audience won't get bored.  This is the most powerful form of cinema, even more important than acting.  To take it even further have the actor walk toward the subject.  Switch to a tracking shot to show his changing perspective as he walks. The audience will believe they are sharing something personal with the character.  This is what Hitchcock calls "pure cinema." (Truffaut)

Note: If another person looks at the character in point-of-view they must look directly at the camera.

STEP 6: Montage Gives You Control

Divide action into a series of close-ups shown in succession.  Don't avoid this basic technique.   This is not the same as throwing together random shots into a fight sequence to create confusion.  Instead, carfully chose a close-up of a hand, an arm, a face, a gun falling to the floor - tie them all together to tell a story.  In this way you can portray an event by showing various pieces of it and having control over the timing. You can also hide parts of the event so that the mind of the audience is engaged. (Truffaut)

Hitchcock said this was "transferring the menace from the screen into the mind of the audience." (Schickel)  The famous shower scene in Psycho uses montage to hide the violence.  You never see the knife hitting Janet Leigh.  The impression of violence is done with quick editing, and the killing takes place inside the viewer's head rather than the screen.  Also important is knowing when not to cut. (Truffaut)

Basic rule: anytime something important happens, show it in a close-up.  Make sure the audience can see it.

STEP 7: Keep the Story Simple!

If your story is confusing or requires a lot of memorization, you're never going to get suspense out of it.  The key to creating that raw Hitchcock energy is by using simplistic, linear stories that the audience can easily follow.  Everything in your screenplay must be streamlined to offer maximum dramatic impact.  Remove all extraneous material and keep it crisp.  Each scene should include only those essential ingredients that make things gripping for the audience. As Hitchcock says, “what is drama, after all, but life with the dull bits cut out…” (Truffaut) 

An abstract story will bore the audience. This is why Hitchcock tended to use crime stories with spies, assassinations, and people running from the police.  These sort of plots make it easy to play on fear, but are not mandatory for all movies.

STEP 8: Characters Must Break Cliché

Make all of your characters the exact opposite of what the audience expects in a movie.  Turn dumb blondes into smart blondes, give the Cuban guy a French accent, and the criminals must be rich and successful.   They should have unexpected personalities, making decisions on a whim rather than what previous buildup would suggest. These sort of ironic characters make them more realistic to the audience, and much more ripe for something to happen to them.

Hitchcock criminals tend to be wealthy upper class citizens whom you’d never suspect, the policeman and politicians are usually the bumbling fools, the innocent are accused, and the villains get away with everything because nobody suspects them.  They surprise you at every step of the plot.

STEP 9: Use Humor to Add Tension

Humor is essential to Hitchcock storytelling. Pretend you are playing a practical joke on the main character of your movie.  Give him the most ironic situations to deal with. It's the unexpected gag, the coincidence, the worst possible thing that can go wrong - all can be used to build tension. 

In Marnie, Tippi Hedren is stealing money from an office safe and is just about to leave when she notices the maid happens to be cleaning in the next room.  The maid is completely innocent and unaware. Hedren will get caught if the maid sees her, but the audience is already hoping that she gets away with it. The more happily the maid mops the floor and the closer she gets to seeing Hedren, the higher the tension.

You'll also find that Hitchcock tended to use comical old women to add a flavor of innocent humor in his films. They will usually be opinionated, chatty, and have a highly optimistic view about crime. If someone were committing a crime they might even help with it!

[MORE about use of humor]

STEP 10: Two Things Happening at Once

Build tension into a scene by using contrasting situations.  Use two unrelated things happening at once.  The audience should be focused on the momentum of one, and be interrupted by the other.  Usually the second item should be a humorous distraction that means nothing (this can often be dialogue.)  It was put there by you only to get in the way.

When unexpected guests arrive at the hotel room in the Man Who Knew Too Much (1956), Jimmy Stewart and Doris Day are in the midst of a tense phone-call.  The arrival of the guests laughing and joking serve a dramatic counterpoint to the real momentum of the scene.  In Spellbound (1945)Ingrid Bergman sees a note which has been slipped under her door.  Just when she grabs for it, her colleagues walk in and speak with her about the dissapearance of Gregory Peck, completely unaware they are standing on top of the note from him!  The end result is - the audience pays more attention to what's happening.

STEP 11: Suspense is Information

"Information" is essential to Hitchcock suspense; showing the audience what the characters don’t see.  If something is about to harm the characters, show it at beginning of the scene and let the scene play out as normal.  Constant reminders of this looming danger will build suspense.  But remember - the suspense is not in the mind of the character.  They must be completely unaware of it. (Schickel, Truffaut)

In Family Plot (1976) Hitchcock shows the audience that brake fluid is leaking out of a car well before the characters find out about it. In Psycho (1960) we know about the crazy mother before the detective (Martin Balsam) does, making the scene in which Balsam enters the house one of the most suspenseful scenes in Hitchcock's career.

“The essential fact is to get real suspense you must let the audience have information." --Alfred Hitchcock

STEP 12: Surprise and Twist

Once you've built your audience into gripping suspense it must never end the way they expect.  The bomb must never go off!  Lead them in one direction and then pull the rug out from under them in a surprise twist.

In the climax scene of Saboteur (1942) Norman Lloyd is cornered on the top of the Statue of Liberty as Robert Cummings holds him at gunpoint.  Just when you think it's over, Cummings begins to speak, startling Lloyd to fall backwards over the edge!

STEP 13: Warning: May Cause MacGuffin

The MacGuffin is the side effect of creating pure suspense. When scenes are built around dramatic tension, it doesn’t really matter what the story is about.  If you've done your job and followed all the previous steps, the audience is still glued no matter what.  You can use random plot devices known as the MacGuffin.

The MacGuffin is nothing. The only reason for the MacGuffin is to serve a pivotal reason for the suspense to occur.  (Schickel) It could be something as vague as the "government secrets perhaps" in North by Northwest, or the long detailed weapons plans of Mr. Memory in the 39 Steps.  Or, it could be something simple like the dog blocking the stairway in Strangers on a Train.  Nobody cares about the dog.  It's only there for one reason - suspense.  It could have just as easily been a person, an alarm, a talking parrot, or a macguffin! 

http://borgus.com/hitch/hitch2011.htm

How to buy an engagement ring

http://www.tiffany.co.uk/Engagement/Browse.aspx?mcat=148203#p+1-n+6-cg+-c+-s+-r+-t+-ri+-ni+1-x+-pu+-f+12/0/0/0/0/0


Find perfect engagement ring:


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Diamond Shapes

1. Round
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4. Emerald oval
5. Square
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1. Solitaire
2. Three Stone
3. Pave
4. Diamond band
5. Side Stones

Metals

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Tiffany Designs

1. The Tiffany Setting
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http://www.bluenile.co.uk/engagement-rings/engagement-ring-guide


Ring Education

The classic engagement ring is composed of two parts: a diamond and a setting. For the best value, find the engagement ring setting she'll love then devote the remainder of your budget to a beautiful, certified diamond.

How Much Should I Spend?

This is an emotional event, and a purchase that will last a lifetime. The two-months salary convention is a common starting point, but we believe that regardless of the amount you budget, your most important considerations should be quality and value.This guide will help you choose an engagement ring setting she'll love, and decide on the right combination of diamond size and quality, so you're sure to choose the perfect ring.

Choose the Ring She'll Love 

Discovering what kind of ring she likes can be a challenge if you want to keep your proposal a secret. We'll give you a list of all the points you'll need to know before you begin shopping, as well as some secret methods for discovering her ring size as well as her taste in engagement rings.

Types of Precious Metals for Ring Settings characteristics price setting metal performance Platinum Enduring, strong, and lasts a lifetime Composed of 95% platinum and 5% other pure alloys A rare and expensive precious metal  Centre diamond is set in platinum claws Strongest precious metal Resistant to damage Does not wear away Develops a satin finish Platinum is hypoallergenic Highest level of purity   18k Gold A classic metal with high gold purity Composed of 75% gold and 25% pure alloys Less expensive than platinum, yet highly valued Centre diamond is set in platinum claws Softer, malleable metal Easy to polish and repair Resistant to rust and tarnishing 18k yellow gold is rich in colour Has a distinct heritage   14k Gold A strong metal that is popular in fine jewellery Composed of 58.3% gold and 41.7% pure alloys Less expensive than 18k gold, yet offers great value Centre diamond is set in 14k white gold claws Known for strength Longer wear due to hardness Easy to polish and repair Resistant to rust and tarnishing Moderate in colour compared to 18k yellow gold   Palladium A rare metal with the highest purity Composed of 95% palladium and 5% other pure alloys Less expensive than platinum, yet offers great value Centre diamond is set in platinum claws Known for strength, yet lighter than platinum Has a natural and permanent whiteness Easy to polish and repair Resistant to corrosion, oxidation, and tarnishing Palladium is hypoallergenic It is scratch-resistant Choose the Right Diamond  At Blue Nile, we want to ensure every one of our customers makes a knowledgeable purchase. Whether you want the largest diamond, the highest-quality diamond, or a balance of diamond size and quality, we'll make sure you have a full understanding of what you're buying so you're sure to make the right decision. You already know you're creating the one-of-a-kind ring she'll wear for the rest of her life, so you want to be sure she loves it. She will likely have a preference of the type of metal and the colour for her engagement ring setting and we've created some guidance to help get you started: An engagement diamond may be the biggest purchase you've ever made. And with the right information, you'll be able to spend your budget on the diamond qualities that are most important to you. Read on and we'll provide you with a thorough understanding of diamond quality. Choose Your Diamond Shape To start, find out what shape she likes. Popular diamond shapes include round, oval, princess-cut, emerald-cut, Asscher-cut, marquise-cut, radiant-cut, pear-shaped, and heart-shaped diamonds. The majority of diamond engagement rings today are set with a round diamond. And most of the remaining rings are set with princess-cut diamonds.  Choose Your Diamond Size sizes is available within a given budget. Next, you'll narrow this range when you decide on the quality of your diamond. See the chart below to get an idea of the size of diamond that best suits your budget. You'll find a wide range of diamond  Starting at £613 Starting at £1,327 Starting at £1,787 Starting at £3,726 Starting at £4,951 Price comparison: D–J colour, FL–SI2 clarity, Ideal–Fair cut. Prices and measurements are approximate. Choose the Four Cs of Diamond Quality At Blue Nile, it's our goal to help all our customers make an educated, confident buying decision. Below is a summary of what you'll find in our Diamond Education. Cut: The cut of a diamond has the biggest affect on its sparkle, also called brilliance. Even with perfect colour and clarity, a poor cut can make a diamond look dull. We carry only Ideal, Very Good, Good, and Fair cut diamonds, which produce the most brilliance.  Key Points Cut is a diamond's most important characteristic. It has the greatest overall influence on a diamond's beauty. It determines what we generally think of as sparkle. Blue Nile gemmologists recommend selecting the highest cut grade within your budget. The reason is simple: of the Four Cs, no other characteristic has a greater influence on a diamond's appearance. A diamond's cut grade is an objective measure of a diamond's light performance, or, what we generally think of as sparkle. When a diamond is cut with the proper proportions, light is returned out of the top of the diamond (which gemmologists refer to as the table). If it is cut too shallow, light leaks out of the bottom; too deep and it escapes out of the side. Cut Grades Blue Nile Signature Ideal cut: Our most brilliant cut, representing roughly the top 1% of diamond quality based on cut. The highest grades of polish and symmetry allow it to reflect even more light than the standard ideal cut. Ideal cut: Represents roughly the top 3% of diamond quality based on cut. Reflects nearly all light that enters the diamond. An exquisite and rare cut. Very good cut: Represents roughly the top 15% of diamond quality based on cut. Reflects nearly as much light as the ideal cut, but for a lower price. Good cut: Represents roughly the top 25% of diamond quality based on cut. Reflects most light that enters. Much less expensive than a very good cut. Fair cut: Represents roughly the top 35% of diamond quality based on cut. Still a quality diamond, but a fair cut will not be as brilliant as a good cut. Poor cut: Diamonds that are generally so deep and narrow or shallow and wide that they lose most of the light out the sides and bottom. Blue Nile does not carry diamonds with cut grades of poor. What Cut Grade Is Right For Me? For the best possible cut, look to the Blue Nile Signature Collection. Custom made exclusively for Blue Nile, each Signature Collection diamond is hand-selected and cut to the most exacting standards, guaranteeing one of the finest cuts available in the world. Diamonds with a cut grade of good or very good represent an excellent combination of beauty and value. Now that you have a solid understanding of how cut affects a diamond's light performance (or sparkle), learn about the second of the Four Cs, colour. Colour: Colourless diamonds are most highly valued and are priced accordingly. For the best value, choose a colourless or near-colourless diamond that has no noticeable colour, grades D-J. These are the only grades of diamond colour offered by Blue Nile.  Key Points Colour refers to a diamond's lack of colour, grading the whiteness of a diamond. A colour grade of D is the highest possible, while Z is the lowest. Blue Nile only sells diamonds with a colour grade of J or higher. Colour manifests itself in a diamond as a pale yellow. This is why a diamond's colour grade is based on its lack of colour. The less colour a diamond has, the higher its colour grade. After cut, colour is generally considered the second most important characteristic when selecting a diamond. This is because the human eye tends to detect a diamond's sparkle (light performance) first, and colour second. At Blue Nile, you'll find only the finest diamonds with colour graded D-J. Diamonds graded J or better are colourless or near-colourless, with colour that is typically undetectable to the unaided eye. Z-N Noticeable colour. Not carried by Blue Nile. M-K Noticeable colour. Not carried by Blue Nile. J-I Near-colourless. An exceptional value with slightly detectable warmth or tone. H-G Near-colourless. Colour difficult to detect unless compared side-by-side against diamonds of better grades. An excellent value. F-E Colourless. Minute traces of colour can be detected by an expert gemologist. A rare diamond. D Absolutely colourless. The highest colour grade. Extremely rare. What Colour is Right for Me? For the purist, look for a colourless diamond with a grade of D-F for a diamond with no discernible colour. For an excellent value in a diamond with little or no noticeable colour to the unaided eye, look for a near-colourless grade of G-I Clarity: Diamonds free from internal flaws, or inclusions, are very rare and highly-valued. The best value in diamond clarity is a diamond with no inclusions visible to the unaided eye. Blue Nile only offers diamonds graded FL–SI2, some of the clearest diamonds available.  Key Points Clarity is a measure of the number and size of the tiny imperfections that occur in almost all diamonds. Many of these imperfections are microscopic, and do not affect a diamond's beauty in any discernible way. Much is made of a diamond's clarity, but of the Four Cs, it is the easiest to understand, and, according to many experts, generally has the least impact on a diamond's appearance. Clarity simply refers to the tiny, natural imperfections that occur in all but the finest diamonds. Gemmologists refer to these imperfections by a variety of technical names, including blemishes and inclusions, among others. Diamonds with the least and smallest imperfections receive the highest clarity grades. Because these imperfections tend to be microscopic, they do not generally affect a diamond's beauty in any discernible way. FL, IF Flawless, Internally Flawless: No internal or external imperfections. Internally Flawless: No internal imperfections. Very rare. VVS1, VVS2 Very, Very Slightly Included: Very difficult to see imperfections under 10x magnification. An excellent quality diamond. VS1, VS2 Very Slightly Included: Imperfections are not typically visible to the unaided eye. Less expensive than the VVS1 or VVS2 grades. SI1, SI2 Slightly Included: Imperfections are visible under 10x magnification, and may be visible with the unaided eye. A good diamond value. I1, I2, I3 Included: Blue Nile does not carry diamonds of I-grade clarity. What Clarity Grade Is Right For Me? Select an "eye-clean" diamond - one that has no imperfections visible to the unaided eye. An excellent value, diamonds of this clarity are much less expensive than flawless (FL) or internally flawless (IF) diamonds, which are extremely rare and command higher prices. Frequently, imperfections in diamonds graded slightly included (SI) are not visible to the unaided eye, making them an excellent value. If you're considering a diamond with an SI clarity grade, call to speak to a diamond and jewellery consultant who will review the diamond to ensure the imperfections are not visible to the unaided eye. Carat weight: Since larger diamonds are more rare than smaller diamonds, diamond value rises exponentially with carat weight. With a clear understanding of cut, colour, and clarity, you can balance the overall diamond quality with the size of your diamond. Key Points Carat is specifically a measure of a diamond's weight, and by itself may not accurately reflect a diamond's size. We tend to evaluate diamond size by viewing it from the top because that is how diamonds are presented to us when set into a ring. To understand diamond size, carat weight should be considered in conjunction with two other criteria: Distance in millimeters across the top of the diamond. Diamond's cut grade. Diamond Carat Size Chart This print out illustrates how diamonds of different carat weights and shapes will appear when viewed from the top down. Your diamond may differ from the printout in length/width ratio, table, and depth. (This document is a PDF file  and requires Adobe Acrobat Reader. If you do not have Acrobat Readerdownload it for free.) As the name suggests, carat weight specifically refers to a diamond's weight. However, much as a person's weight does not necessarily correlate with height, carat weight, by itself, may not accurately reflect a diamond's size. To gain a precise understanding of diamond size, Blue Nile recommends considering carat weight with two other characteristics: 1) the distance across the top of the diamond measured in millimeters, and 2) the diamond's cut grade. It is important to measure the distance across the top of the diamond as this is how we view a stone when set into a ring. A diamond's cut grade should also be considered because, as we noted in the cut grade section, when a diamond is cut with the proper proportions, the maximum amount of light (or sparkle) is returned out of the top of the diamond. Thus, when a diamond is well cut, the light reflected out of the top makes it appear larger. In addition, much of the weight of a poorly cut diamond, for example, may be "hidden" in the base of the diamond, making the diamond appear smaller than its carat weight would imply. It is therefore possible to have a diamond of a lower carat weight, but higher cut grade, that appears larger than a diamond with a larger carat weight, but poor cut. Once you've selected your cut, colour, and clarity grade, it's easy to determine the carat weight of diamond that will fit within your budget. Much as there are 100 pennies in a dollar, a one-carat diamond is comprised of 100 points. Hence, 50 points is equal to 1/2-carat, and so on.  What Carat Weight Is Right For Me? To choose the best carat weight of diamond, consider the size of her finger, the size of your setting, and your budget. If a large carat weight is important to you, yet you're working within a strict budget, consider a diamond with a good cut, SI1-SI2 clarity, and an I or J colour grade. Diamond prices jump at the full- and half-carat weights. Diamonds just below these weights cost significantly less, and, because carat weight is distributed across the entirety of the diamond, small size differences are almost impossible to detect. Keep in mind that the smaller the finger, the larger the diamond will appear. A 1.5-carat diamond solitaire looks much larger on a size 4 finger than a size 8. Not all settings will fit all diamond carats or shapes. If you have already selected a setting, check the diamond specifications of your ring or ask your Blue Nile Diamond and Jewellery Consultant (1-888-565-7641) for help. If you need a special jewellery piece created, Blue Nile can accommodate almost any request. Choose Your Diamond Shape Since all diamond shapes are very different, unique characteristics determine quality for each shape. Select your shape below to learn how to recognise the most beautiful diamond. If you have additional questions, feel free to contact one of our Diamond and Jewellery Consultants who can help you find the diamond that's perfect for you.           Round The round brilliant cut diamond is by far the most popular and most researched diamond shape available today. For almost 100 years, diamond cutters have been using advanced theories of light behaviour and precise mathematical calculations to optimize the fire and brilliance in a round diamond. In addition to being the most popular and researched shape, a round diamond will typically give you more flexibility in terms of balancing cut, colour, and clarity grades while still getting the fire and brilliance you want. To maximize the brilliance of a traditional round diamond, select one in the two highest cut grades, ideal or very good, and choose ideal, excellent, or very good polish and symmetry grades. For the finest ideal round diamonds available, view the Blue Nile Signature Round Collection. search for diamonds Princess This is our most popular non-round diamond. Its beautiful brilliance and unique cut makes it a favourite for engagement rings. The princess has pointed corners and is traditionally square in shape. When choosing a colour grade, consider that while the price of a J-colour non-round diamond is exceptional, colour may be slightly visible in its corners. Also, princess-cut diamonds can vary greatly in how square or rectangular they are. To find the dimension of princess you want, look for the length-to-width ratio in our interactive diamond search and on each diamond's detail page. This will determine what the diamond will look like when viewing it from above. Here are length-to-width ratios for princess-cut diamond shapes that are pleasing to the eye. For a princess diamond shape that is square, look for length-to-width ratios between 1 and 1.05. If you prefer more of a rectangular shape, look for length-to-width ratios greater than 1.10. For the most brilliant princess available, view theBlue Nile Signature Princess-Cut Collection. search for diamonds Emerald What makes this shape different is its pavilion, which is cut with rectangular facets to create a unique optical appearance. Due to its larger, open table, this shape highlights the clarity of a diamond. If you choose an emerald-cut with a lower clarity grade, such as SI, be sure to review the clarity plot on the diamond certificate. Also, emerald-cut diamonds can vary greatly in how rectangular they are. If you'd prefer an emerald cut with a squared outline, look for an Asscher-cut diamond. To find the shape of emerald you want, look for the length-to-width ratio in our interactive diamond search and on each diamond's detail page. The length-to-width ratio will determine the diamond's outline, or what it will look like when viewed from the top. For the classic emerald-cut shape, look for a length-to-width ratio between 1.30 and 1.40. For the highest standard of craftsmanship available in an emerald-cut diamond, view the Blue Nile Signature Emerald-Cut Diamond Collection. search for diamonds Asscher This beautifully unique shape is nearly identical to the emerald-cut, except that it is square. Also, this shape has a pavilion that is cut with rectangular facets in the same style as the emerald-cut. If you choose SI-clarity be sure to view the clarity plot on the diamond certificate, because this shape highlights the clarity of the diamond. When choosing a colour grade, consider that while the price of a J-colour non-round diamond is exceptional, colour may be slightly visible in its corners. All Asscher-cut diamonds from Blue Nile will appear square, because each one is guaranteed to have a length-to-width ratiobetween 1.00 and 1.05. For our ideal Asscher-cut diamond, view the Blue Nile Signature Asscher-Cut Diamond Collection. search for diamonds Marquise The shape of a marquise diamond can maximize carat weight, giving you a much larger-looking diamond. This brilliant-cut diamond looks beautiful set with round or pear-shaped side stones, and the length of the marquise makes fingers appear long and slender. To find the dimension of marquise you want, look for thelength-to-width ratio in our interactive diamond search and on each diamond's detail page. The length-to-width ratio will determine the diamond's outline, or what it will look like when viewed from the top. For the most traditional marquise-cut diamonds, look for length-to-width ratios between 1.75 and 2.25 search for diamonds Oval An oval diamond has beautiful brilliance that's similar to a round diamond. Oval diamonds are also very popular as their length can accentuate long, slender fingers. To find the dimension of oval you want, look for the length-to-width ratio in our interactive diamond search and on each diamond's detail page. The length-to-width ratio will determine the diamond's outline, or what it will look like when viewed from the top. For the most traditional oval diamonds, look for length-to-width ratios between 1.33 and 1.66. search for diamonds Radiant Trimmed corners are the signature of this diamond, and they help make the radiant-cut a popular and versatile choice for jewellery. A radiant-cut looks equally beautiful set with either baguette or round side-diamonds. Radiant-cut diamonds can vary in their degree of rectangularity. To find the dimension of radiant you want, look for the length-to-width ratio in our interactive diamond search and on each diamond's detail page. Thelength-to-width ratio will determine the diamond's outline, or what it will look like when viewed from the top. For a radiant diamond shape that is square, look for length-to-width ratios between 1 and 1.05. If you prefer more of a rectangular shape, look for length-to-width ratios greater than 1.10. search for diamonds Pear This brilliant-cut diamond is also called a teardrop for its single point and rounded end. The unique look of the pear shape helps make it a popular choice for a variety of diamond jewellery. If you choose an elongated pear shape, the length of the diamond creates a subtle slimming effect on the fingers. To understand what the diamond will look like when viewing it from above, look for thelength-to-width ratio on each diamond's detail page. For the most traditional pear-shaped diamond, look for a length-to-width ratio between 1.45 and 1.75. search for diamonds Heart The heart is the ultimate symbol of love. The unique look of the heart-shaped diamond helps make it a distinctive choice for a variety of diamond jewellery. When choosing a colour grade, consider that while the price of a J-colour heart shaped diamond is exceptional, colour may be slightly visible in its corners. To find the dimension of heart-shape you want, look for the length-to-width ratio in our interactive diamond search and on each diamond's detail page. The length-to-width ratio will determine the diamond's outline, or what it will look like when viewed from the top. For a more traditional heart-shaped diamond, look for length-to-width ratios between .90 and 1.10. search for diamonds Cushion This unique shape has been popular for more than a century. Cushion-cut diamonds (also known as "pillow-cut" diamonds) have rounded corners and larger facets to increase their brilliance. These larger facets highlight the diamond's clarity, so if you choose an SI clarity grade, be sure to review the clarity plot on the diamond certificate. Cushion-cut diamonds are available in shapes ranging from square to rectangular. To find the dimension of cushion you want, look for the length-to-width ratio in our interactive diamond search and on each diamond's detail page. The length-to-width ratio will determine the diamond's outline, or what it will look like when viewed from the top. For a cushion-cut diamond that is square, look for length-to-width ratios between 1 and 1.05. If you prefer more of a rectangular shape, look for length-to-width ratios greater than 1.15. search for diamonds What is a Certificate? A diamond certificate, also called a diamond grading report, diamond dossier®, or diamond quality document, is a report created by a team of gemmologists. The diamond is evaluated, measured, and scrutinized using trained eyes, a jeweller’s loupe, a microscope, and other industry tools. A completed certificate includes an analysis of the diamond’s dimensions, clarity, colour, polish, symmetry, and other characteristics. Many round diamonds will also include a cut grade on the report. The platinum jewellery at Blue Nile is made of fine quality jewellery grade platinum. Its cool white sheen makes platinum our most popular metal of choice for settings, as it accentuates the sparkle and brilliance of a diamond. Platinum Education The most appealing characteristic of platinum is its durability. If scratched, platinum will not lose any metal and it does not wear away over time. For that reason, all platinum rings are crafted with platinum prongs for setting loose diamonds.   Buyer's Tip When selecting a setting for a diamond, we recommend using a platinum head. Platinum's cool white sheen beautifully accentuates the sparkle and brilliance of a diamond, and its great strength holds the gem firmly. Platinum Jewellery  For beauty and durability, our platinum jewellery, like these platinum Love Knot earrings, is 95% pure platinum. While it is the strongest of jewellery metals, it can scratch and develop a patina of wear. Many people prefer this look, unique to platinum. But if you like the shine, a jeweller can polish your jewellery to bring back the original reflective finish. In the mean time, buffing with a soft cloth can give your jewellery renewed luster. The majority of our platinum jewellery is 95 percent pure platinum combined with 5 percent iridium, palladium, ruthenium or other alloys. For guaranteed quality in platinum, look for the marks 950 Plat or Plat. Care Soaking platinum in a mild solution of soap and warm water and gently scrubbing it with a soft-bristled brush is usually all that is required to maintain the metal's luster. Gold Purity, Colour, Pricing, and Care Gold has an extraordinary heritage with unique qualities. As an enduring element found naturally in a distinct yellow colour, gold is resistant to rust, tarnish, and corrosion. Although gold is very strong, it's also the most malleable of all precious metals. Purity Pure gold is too soft for everyday wear, so it is alloyed with a mixture of metals like silver, copper, nickel, and zinc to give it strength and durability. Karatage, denoted by a number followed by "k" indicates purity, or how much of the metal in a piece of jewellery is gold. Karatage is expressed in 24ths, making 24k gold, 100% gold. We craft our jewellery using both 18k and 14k gold. 18k gold is composed of 75% gold, which is alloyed with other metals to make it strong enough for everyday wear. 14k gold is composed of 58.3% gold and 41.7% of other metals. Colour The colour of gold is determined by two factors: The type of metal alloys included The percentage of each metal alloy Yellow Gold Natural gold and colour-saturated alloys are what give yellow gold jewellery its rich shine. The alloys most commonly used, are copper with a red hue, and silver featuring a green hue. An expert mixture of copper, silver and pure gold gives this precious metal its signature warmth. White Gold A silvery white character is what makes white gold jewelleryso appealing. In order to make the gold white, it is combined with metal alloys that are white in nature and plated with an extremely hard element called rhodium. Although strong, rhodium may wear away over time. Replating is a simple process that can be done to restore whiteness to your jewellery.   Gold, element Au, was one of the first known metals. The gold standard defines the world's currency system, whereby money represents a value in gold.  24 karat = 100% gold Too soft for fine jewellery 22 karat = 91.7% gold Too soft for fine jewellery 18 karat = 75.0% gold Ideal for fine jewellery 14 karat = 58.3% gold Ideal for fine jewellery 9 karat = 37.5% gold The minimum standard in the UK Gold Jewellery  Our 18k and 14k gold jewellery is intricately crafted into beautiful pieces for every occasion or style. Rose Gold The beautiful pink hue of rose gold jewellery is created by using a copper alloy. Again, the overall percentages of metal alloys is the same for rose gold as it is for yellow or white, there is just a different mixture in what alloys are used. Pricing Gold jewellery prices are dependent upon the purity of the gold used or karat weight, the market value of gold, and the level of craftsmanship and design of each jewellery piece. Care Since gold is a natural element, it is affected by harsh chemicals such as chlorine or other cleaning products. We recommend that you remove your jewellery when using chemicals to reduce daily abrasions and prolong the luster. To clean gold jewellery, use a solution of warm water and detergent-free soap with a soft-bristled brush. When not worn, store your gold pieces in soft cloth bags or the original box to protect them from the elements of daily exposure. The silver jewellery and accessories available at Blue Nile are made of beautiful sterling silver. For our collection, we have chosen classic designs created by some of the finest silver craftsmen. This guide will help you learn to identify quality in silver jewellery and accessories.   Buyer's Tip Sterling silver is the standard for beautiful high-quality silver jewellery. It's over 90% pure silver, mixed with alloys to add strength and durability. And it won't wear down, as silver plating can. Sterling Silver Jewellery  For jewellery that lasts, all our silver jewellery, like this Sweetheart Locket, is pure sterling silver. Pure silver, also called fine silver, is relatively soft, very malleable, and easily damaged so it is commonly combined with other metals to produce a more durable product. The most popular of these alloys is sterling silver, which consists of 92.5 percent silver and 7.5 percent copper. Although any metal can make up the 7.5 percent non-silver portion of sterling, centuries of experimentation have shown copper to be its best companion, improving the metal's hardness and durability without affecting its beautiful colour. The small amount of copper added to sterling has very little effect on the metal's value. Instead, the price of the silver item is affected by the labour involved in making the item, the skill of the craftsperson, and the intricacy of the design. With proper care, your fine quality silver will last a lifetime. To minimize scratches and other damage, store your silver jewellery either in a cloth pouch or in a separate compartment in your jewellery box. Avoid exposing your silver to household chemicals when cleaning with bleach or ammonia, or when swimming in chlorinated water, as these chemicals can damage silver. Care should also be taken to prevent silver tarnish build-up, a dulling that naturally occurs when silver reacts with sulfur or hydrogen sulfide in the ambient air. To clean your silver, use polishes formulated specifically to remove tarnish. You can find fine silver polishes, solutions, or cloths appropriate to remove tarnish at most hardware stores or specialty craft stores. Tarnish is most easily removed when it first becomes visible. Although wearing your silver jewellery often is the best way to prevent tarnish from building up, regular cleanings of all your silver items will prevent tarnish and keep your silver bright and sparkling. Measuring Your Finger Your ring should fit your finger comfortably; snug enough so that it will not fall off, but loose enough to slide over your knuckle. Finger size changes depending on the time of day and the weather. For best results measure your finger size: At the end of the day and when your fingers are warm (Fingers are smaller in the early morning and when cold.) Measure finger size 3 to 4 times to eliminate an erroneous reading. Avoid using string or paper to measure ring size as these materials can stretch or twist, yielding an inaccurate measurement. Ring Sizes in the UK and Ireland Women’s rings typically range from size G to R. The most commonly purchased women’s ring sizes at Blue Nile range from size K to N. Size M is the most popular ring size. Men’s rings typically range from size P to Z. The most commonly purchased men’s ring sizes at Blue Nile range from size R to U. Size T is the most popular ring size. Tips for Buying the Ring as a Surprise Ask your significant other’s friends or mother if they know her finger size. Borrow one of your significant other’s rings (from the correct finger) and use the ring measurements above to determine its size. Whats everyone buying: