http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2002/feb/13/shopping.familyandrelationships1

How to buy an engagement ring

Buying an engagement ring is a scary business. In the second of our guides, Leo Hickman offers the inside knowledge you need

The Guardian, Wednesday 13 February 2002 16.28 GMT
Article history

The basics

If you are planning to join the 75% of British men who buy their "special lady" a diamond engagement ring, you will want to pay close attention to the following advice. This is not something you want to get wrong. Not only are you about to part with a substantial amount of money (all women know the engagement-ring mantra about the fiancé waving goodbye to at least a month's salary), but you are also about to purchase an object that will be a permanent symbol of the most important relationship of your life.

There are universally agreed rules on buying diamonds. Follow them and you should avoid the pitfalls.

First, a geology lesson: diamonds are 99.95% pure crystallised carbon and can be extremely old - one to three billion years old, in fact. They are the hardest naturally occurring substance known and are formed beneath the Earth's surface when crystals of diamond occur in volcano feed-pipes. When volcanoes erode down, they release diamonds from their feed-pipes into layers of gravel which are later mined. However, due to the relative rarity of this natural process, diamond mines are found in just a handful of sites around the world. In rough form, diamonds are shipped to the world's cutting centres to be shaped and polished before being set as jewellery. It is the hardness, brilliance and sparkle that emerges during this process that transforms them into a girl's best friend.

Now for a quick history lesson, as you may be curious to know where the fashion began. Legend dictates that in 1477, a lovestruck Austrian, Archduke Maximilian, came up with a gem of an idea: why not give Mary of Burgundy a diamond ring to celebrate their imminent engagement? He placed it on the third finger of her left hand - the finger believed by ancient Egyptians to have a vein that led straight to the heart. It is not known whether the marriage was a success, but you don't need to worry about that.

The Four Cs

So now that you know why you are buying an engagement ring made with a diamond, you can familiarise yourself with the "Four Cs" - cut, colour, clarity and carat. All must be considered equally when comparing diamonds, but more than any other factor, according to Tiffany and Co, it is how the diamond is cut that will determine its defining characteristic.

Cut: As the only characteristic of a diamond not influenced by nature, the cut is open to mistakes and bad practices. Cut a diamond incorrectly and the defining sparkle will be compromised. It is how the 57 or 58 facets (the tiny planes cut on the diamond's surface) are angled and sized that dictate how light reflects and exits the diamond, an effect known as its "fire". Make the cuts too deep or too shallow and the diamond will be less brilliant.

The cut will also determine the shape of the diamond. The most common shape is the round cut, but others include the emerald, the pear, the marquise, the princess, the oval and the heart shape. Ask to see all of these shapes, if only in a picture, to make sure you have covered all your options.

Colour: The most valuable and rare colour is white, that is to say, colourless. Jewellers grade absolutely colourless diamonds with a "D". The scale moves up to "Z" (don't ask what happened to A, B and C) and, between these two extremes, diamonds will display subtle coloured tones. Diamonds with a very strong and distinct colour are extremely rare and are called fancies.

Clarity: Many people get unnecessarily hung up over the clarity of a diamond. Look into most diamonds with a jeweller's loupe (magnifying eyeglass) and you will see small "inclusions", also known as "nature's fingerprints". They look like small clouds or feathers but are usually invisible to the naked eye. Inclusions can affect the diamond's fire, but they also make your diamond unique and shouldn't always be seen as a fault. Why worry too much about something you can't see, anyway? As long as the stone is graded SI1 (Slightly Included 1) or better (best and most expensive is IF, or Internally Flawless; worst is I3, or Imperfect 3), you should be all right.

Carat: The weight, and thus the size, of a diamond is measured by carat. A carat is equal to 0.2gm, or 200mgm. A carat is divided into 100 smaller units called points. For example, three-quarters of a carat is 75 points. The average size of most engagement-ring diamonds is somewhere between one carat and half a carat. Do not confuse carats with karats, the unit of purity for gold.

Any reputable jeweller will know about the four Cs and be prepared to talk you through them all without prompt when displaying diamonds. But if you don't wish to place your trust entirely in a jeweller, you should request a "cert stone" - a diamond that has been assessed, graded and coded with a laser by an independent gemmological laboratory. The type of certificate is important, as not all are universally recognised. The most internationally recognised are issued by GIA (the Gemmological Institute of America). Other popular certificates include HRD, IGL, EGL and AGS (see Diamond Certificate Issuers, right). The fee for a grading certificate varies depending upon the carat of your diamond, but for exact prices, contact a specific laboratory. And do not be afraid of organising your own certificate rather than accepting the jeweller's recommendation.

Another good reason for getting cert stones is to guard against buying "diamonds" made with substitutes. Zircon, white sapphire, topaz and quartz are natural minerals that can be nearly colourless and used as natural diamond substitutes. Synthetic substitutes include cubic zirconia and moissanite. All these are sold as legitimately cheap alternatives, but be aware that they are sometimes, albeit rarely, passed off as real diamonds.

Diamonds can also be artificially treated, most commonly by being fracture filled, irradiated or laser treated. All of this is legal, as long as it is disclosed to the buyer, but if you want a "real" and untreated diamond, guard yourself against terms such as "clarity enhanced".

How much should I pay?

This is the fifth C - cost. Obviously, how much you spend is a personal matter, but you will no doubt hear that one to two months' salary is the norm. There is one point to say about this: it seems to stem from De Beers' publicity machine. Spend whatever you like and can realistically afford. Remember that De Beers has a near monopoly on the diamond industry and has an interest in what you spend. And scotch any thoughts that a diamond ring is a sound investment. A retailer can mark up a new diamond ring by up to 100%, and it could lose half its value the moment that you leave the shop. Even with a diamond bought at the virtually wholesale rates of London's jewellery centre, Hatton Garden, it could take more than five years to regain its price.

Give her what she wants

It is all well and good knowing your IFs from your I3s, but if you don't buy her the right type of engagement ring, all is lost. Perhaps the most important piece of advice is never to surprise her with a diamond ring, and not to buy something according to your own taste.

One way to find out what she likes is to take a cue from the style of jewellery that she already owns. Does she prefer modern or traditional? Does she favour white gold, yellow gold, two-tone (white and yellow gold) or platinum (currently the most popular metal for engagement rings)? Also, how does she react to other women's engagement rings? Does she ever express an interest in a particular style when flicking through fashion magazines? The chances are, however, after a quick consultation with her girlfriends and female relatives - if you can trust them with your secret - that you will glean a fairly accurate picture of her likes and dislikes.

She will probably prefer a classic diamond solitaire - which account for 76% of all sales of engagement rings - but there are many ways to present a quality stone on a ring. Would she like a Tiffany-style solitaire in which prongs hold the diamond high? Or perhaps a basket setting, or some other low-head style? Without doubt, though, you should involve her in the decision. It may run counter to your romantic instincts, but she will thank you.

1: Buying from a jeweller

There are alternatives to buying an engagement ring from a jeweller. You could, perhaps, consider buying an antique ring from a shop or auction, but if you want a new ring it is best to visit as many jewellers as possible to gauge what is available on the market. It is worth remembering that major high-street jewellers are inevitably pricier than London's jewellery centre at Hatton Garden, so if you can visit there - many different shops, all in one street - so much the better. Consider, too, that jewellers are busiest in the run-up to Christmas and before Valentine's Day. August is traditionally their slowest month, so it may be the best time to ask for a better deal. Make sure you run this checklist through your head every time you visit a shop:

· Does the store have a long-standing and solid local reputation?

· Do the staff evidently possess a sound gemmological knowledge? Watch out for gratuitous and unexplained jargon.

· Is the shop willing to sell you diamonds with a well-known gemmological certificate? If so, make sure you keep the original rather than a copy.

· Is the shop a member of a trade association? If so, which one?

· Will the shop present a detailed receipt with your purchase? This is key to any possible insurance claim or future repair.

· Does the shop appear to have a busy repairs service? (A good indication of customer trust.)

· Exactly which warranties and guarantees does the shop offer? Read them closely.

· Will the salesperson let you examine the diamond through a loupe and on a white background? If diamonds are viewed on a black background, the eye's perception of colour is hindered.

2: On the web

Buying diamond rings via the internet is not recommended because you should view the diamonds in person so that you can cover all of the above details. If you do choose to do so, only buy cert stones and pay special attention to the delivery terms and possible tax and duty charges if buying from a foreign-based site. But the internet does offer you a chance to do your homework. The following sites will all let you gauge what styles and prices are currently available.

www.thediamondshop.co.uk

www.approveddiamonds.com

www.jewellerywebshop.co.uk

www.jewellerywebshop.co.uk

3: Only for the brave

If you are really on the hunt for a good deal, then you could try some of the companies trying to break with the traditional supply chain of the diamond industry. One such company is the mining firm Rex Mining Diamond Corporation, which has a website intended to bypass the retail route and sell wholesale to the public. The address is www.rexgems.com

Alternatively, try the Hatton Garden wholesalers who normally only sell direct to retailers. In most cases they will not have any recognisable street presence, just a bell to ring, but will sell loose diamonds up to 50% cheaper than available on the high street. They won't have time for people who aren't serious and probably won't be interested in delivering much of a sales spiel, but if you know exactly what you are after, give them a try. Contact the jewellery trade associations for names and numbers to try.

What else do I need to know?

Trade associations

British Jewellery and Giftware Federation

(Tel: 0121-236 2657, www.bjgf.org.uk)

British Jewellers' Association

(Tel: 0121-237 1109, www.bja.org.uk)

Jewellery & Allied Industries Training Council

(Tel: 0121-237 1109, www.jaitc.org.uk)

National Association of Goldsmiths

(Tel: 020-7613 4445, www.progold.net)

Gemmological Association and Gem Testing Laboratory of Great Britain

(Tel: 020-7404 3334, www.gagtl.ac.uk)

Diamond Information Centre (sponsored by the Diamond Trading Company, part of the De Beers Group)

(Tel: 020-7404 4444, www.uk.forevermark.com)

Diamond certificate issuers

Gemmological Institute of America Inc (GIA)

(Tel: 001 760 603 4000, www.gia.org)

Diamond High Council (HRD)

(Tel: 0032 3 222 0511, www.diamonds.be)

European Gemmological Laboratory (EGL)

(Tel: 020-7916 3519, www.egl.co.za)

Independent Gemmological Laboratories, Inc (IGL)

(Tel: 001 212-557 0111)

American Gem Society (AGS)

(Tel: 001 702-233 6120, www.agslab.com)

Ethics watch

Do you really want a ring set with a diamond if the money you have paid for it is helping to arm a rogue government, or a militia group with a questionable human rights record? Unfortunately, the locations of some of the planet's key diamond mines happen to coincide with the locations of some of the world's bitterest conflicts, and those in control of the gems don't always invest their profits ethically.

Sierra Leone is perhaps the most infamous hot spot at present, but the diamond trade has been linked by the UN to troubles in other African states including Rwanda, Angola, Liberia, the Central African Republic, Congo-Brazzaville, Uganda, Ghana, Namibia, Mali, Zambia, Burkina Faso, Guinea and the Ivory Coast.

The UN has also criticised Switzerland, not a diamond-producing nation but a diamond free-trade area, for its role as a transit point for almost half the rough diamonds entering Britain. Antwerp, the "diamond capital of the world", is also criticised for "facilitating" the trade in so-called "blood diamonds".

As consumers, we are helpless when it comes to establishing the true origin of a cut diamond. "After the diamond is cut," says Stephen Kennedy, the laboratory director at the Gemmological Association and Gem Testing Laboratory of Great Britain, "there is no way of knowing the origin of source."

Kennedy's only advice is to be suspicious of dealers who suggest otherwise. The UN's advice is to apply consumer power by asking about the source of origin. That way the message might finally get across to an industry badly in need of better self-regulation.

· The next in the How to Buy series, on bicycles, will be published on February 27. A collection of these guides will be published in a Guardian book in the summer.

http://uk.askmen.com/dating/dating_advice_60/92_dating_tips.html

The time has come to lay down the rules of engagement . The time has come to get down to brass tax and provide all potential grooms, and men in general out there, with advice on how to find the perfect ring for that special woman in your life.

Of course, the debate among certain cynical, though some may say wise, men will always ensue: Why the heck do we have to buy a ring? Why do we have to drop that kind of coin on a trinket?

The short answer for some of us is simple: Because we want to. Some men recognize the inherent symbolism an engagement ring has as a mark of decisive commitment, promise of ultimate love, devotion and so on. This is neither right nor wrong. This just is .

Past experience with women and family history can have much to do with your opinion on the subject. A man who has undergone three divorces and the equivalent of financial rape without the protection of a prenuptial agreement or decent lawyer may not look so well on the expense, or significance, of an engagement ring. Heck, even some men about to marry their high-school sweetheart feel an uncomfortable pressure to buy the perfect ring and question the entire process to begin with. But when push comes to shove, most of you who marry will do the ring thing, like it or not.

i like engagement rings

I actually like it to be quite honest. I do not think you have to spend a fortune to ice her finger and blind everyone she meets with a rock the size of Gibraltar, but I appreciate the tradition of the engagement ring. I never have been the cynical sort who thought it was part of a vast conspiracy by the diamond industry to make more moolah off the masses.

There seems to be near universal agreement after all, on the historical origin of engagement rings, or diamond engagement rings to be more precise. Many sources, and yes the Diamond Trading Company, the world's leading diamond sales and marketing company, is one of them, concur that the tradition began in 1477 when Archduke Maximillian of Austria bought his future wife Mary of Burgundy enough carats for Snoop Dogg to remark, " bling bling my nizzle !" Since that momentous event, the tradition has spread throughout the Judeo-Christian ethos and men have spent an inordinate amount of effort, time and money in an attempt to find the perfect ring for their soon-to-be spouses.

Here's some bonus information, free of charge, that you can use to romance your lady as you slip the ring on: In ancient Egypt, it was common belief that the vena amoris (love vein) ran from the fourth finger of the left hand to the heart. So if you want to point the blame at anyone, fault the Hapsburg Empire of Austria, Ancient Egypt, as well as the global diamond consortiums, for our modern obsession with engagement rings.

women are to blame

I say this in jest, of course, because as we all know, women are to blame for bank account liquidation in the name of the ideal finger bauble. Okay, so maybe I do not believe that either, but I can say with confidence that many men do (some of them even write for AskMen.com). In particular, men who have been through costly divorces and would love to have the 10 grand back that they spent on that pear-shaped rock set on a white gold band. But when you think about it, society fuels unrealistic expectations for not just the perfect engagement ring, but also the perfect everything : Sex life, marriage, children, body, career, and life in general.

So try to separate yourself from every other couple, diamond engagement ring and lofty expectation set before you as you strive to kick-start your personal path to nuptial bliss with not the perfect ring, but the perfect ring for your woman and your circumstance.

That said, here are some factors to consider:

The cost of the ring

Jewelry is expensive. Good jewelry is even more expensive. Good jewelry with diamonds is... you get the point here, men. When you start to devise a budget for your ring and solicit advice on the matter, the two-month rule will come up. That is, your salary over a two, or even three-month period, is a common benchmark to judge how much to spend, according to Mr. Pius Kaufmann, a diamond expert and founder of the exclusive Kaufmann de Suisse jewelry stores, with locations in Montreal, New York and Palm Beach. Take that to mean whatever you want it to. Some men spend more because they may have other disposable income from another source and some men spend less and find a more than acceptable ring to bestow on their significant other. The choice is yours. I suggest you shop around, talk to jewelers, surf the Web for resources on the subject and of course, talk to other men who have done the deed.

The four C's

To determine the best price for your ring, you need to familiarize yourself with the four C's, unless of course, you don't plan to buy her a diamond engagement ring. But if, like the vast majority of the population, you opt to, do recognize that more than any other factors, carat, clarity, color, and cut determine the cost of a diamond.

Carat
The concept here is simple: Carat refers to the weight of a diamond. The more carats, the more your bank balance falls. But remember that bigger is not always better. It all depends on the blend of the other diamond characteristics and also, the size of her finger. If your honey has a slender frame and small hands, a 1-carat stone is enough to make a statement.

Clarity
Evaluators of diamonds base part of the price on luster and sheen. These relate to the clarity of the stone. You can spend less on a very large but cloudy diamond for example, than on a small but transparent and shiny one. Diamonds are the most durable compounds on earth and the amount of pressure it takes to cut one is immense. Inclusions (an industry term) form and as a result, there are grades to rate specific diamonds for clarity. The important thing to bear in mind, however, is that the less flaws visible to the naked eye, the more expensive the stone. Keep that in mind as you shop around.
Color
People, rather women, prize the sparkle or refraction of light from a white diamond above all else. The more color one has, the less sparkle there is. Hence, the price rises. There are color grades for diamonds, from D-E-F (clear) to V-W-X (yellow tint), that you must balance with the clarity grade to determine what stone is best for your lady and budget.

A final note about color: The standards above refer to white diamonds. "Fancy" color diamonds, such as the pink one Ben gave to J-Lo, are very rare and out of reach for most.

Cut
Cut may be the most elusive C to understand. A good cut predisposes the amount of light that can enter into the stone, refract and emit that brilliant quality that people love in a diamond. Rather than go into the specifics of this C (trust me, this is heady stuff), I suggest you read up on it yourself (you'll find a link at the end of the article in the Resources).

Certification of diamond

There are some shady characters out there that claim they can sell you a 2-carat diamond for a crazy price. Do not believe the hype. That diamond is bound to be cubic zirconium or more to the point, glass. Hey, maybe you want glass. Be my guest. But if it's a diamond you seek, buy from a reputable jeweler who can certify the stone. That is, when you purchase the ring, you will receive a certificate of authenticity that is, in essence, a blueprint of the diamond. The document will outline the characteristics of the stone, but not the price. Make sure the issuer is either the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) or the American Gem Society (AGS).

Pius Kaufmann, with almost 50 years of experience in the business and global recognition as one of the foremost diamond experts, has this advice for men about to purchase their first diamond:

"Look for a jeweler you know you can trust. One that has a good reputation in the community and one that has been in business for many years."

"Does the quality of the merchandise adhere to the highest standards? Look at the workmanship -- the inside of the diamond should be as beautifully finished as the outside. Make sure the setting work is done with the utmost perfection, as you would not want to risk losing a stone you cherish."

The ring's band

The amount of importance you place on the band of the ring is up to you. Because the vast majority of the cost is for the diamond, you may choose not to consider it much at all. In terms of precious metals, you have silver, gold, white gold, and platinum, with the latter being the most expensive. However, Kaufmann states that "the best settings are in platinum, for it is the most resistant metal."

Try to find out her taste and style, and go from there. You have to consider the width and thickness of the band, her hand type and skin color, not to mention her present jewelry stash. If she wears a lot of white gold, then bingo, you have your candidate. How the diamond is set within the band is very important as well. Some men like jewelers to raise the rock high on the band in order to show it off to the world, but that may make the ring look gaudy. Go for modesty and class for a timeless look.

Her ring size

You may have to pull a fast one to find out her ring size. Some common tricks are to take a ring she wears now and press it into a bar of soap or trace the outline onto a piece of paper. Or better yet, push it down as far as you can on your ring finger and mark the spot where it stops. Any jeweler can then determine her proper size. If worst comes to worst, you can always ask her mother or best friend for guidance.

To customize or not?

That is often the question. If you want to buy her the perfect ring, common wisdom dictates that the ring be unique, and therefore custom-made. It is not necessarily more expensive but does require more work and research on your part. Anyone can choose a ring from a display case, right? But hey, some of those rings are great.

Just try to gauge the personal preferences of your woman beforehand, whether you do so in a clandestine manner or not. No need to assume that the proposal is going to be a surprise since it seems that more and more today, couples make the decision together and even pick out the ring together. If the latter is the case for you, then you are off the hook and do not have to go out on a limb and choose the perfect ring on your own. Yet for me, there is something nice about the risk inherent in that endeavor, if only because the ultimate reward is so much sweeter.

You have a lot more to brag about when you do it yourself and make her squeal with delight at your choice (especially if you do it under budget). Again, it boils down to your personal situation and just how high maintenance your woman is. I have female friends who swear that a plastic ring from a box of Cracker Jack is enough to make their hearts melt if the proposal were sincere. I have my suspicions about that claim but hey, you never know what some people place importance on.

know your woman

The bottom line is that if you want to buy her the perfect engagement ring, you have to know your woman well. Observe her demeanor, her body language, her dress, and any allusions she makes about jewelry, fashion and style. Heck, even her personal belief system can play a decisive role in what type of ring you invest in.

Which brings up a final point: Are diamonds an investment? The short answer is no. Not in the form that most purchase them in, such as an engagement ring. If you buy your diamond at a fair price, however, it is liable to hold over time.

Needless to say, there are many non-monetary investment considerations that factor into the total perception of a diamond subsequent to purchase: as a symbol of commitment, love and devotion for example, a diamond ring can be priceless to some. If you let those intangibles act as your motivation in your quest for the perfect ring, your woman is bound to be happy with whatever you choose.

http://www.danielprince.co.uk/How_To_Buy_An_Engagement_Ring.html

If you plan to buy a diamond engagement ring this year, then pay attention to the following advice because this isn't something you want to get wrong. Not only are you about to spend a significant portion of your annual income but, and more importantly, you are also about to buy an an item of jewellery that will act as a permanent reminder of the most important relationship of your life

First though, a little lesson in Geology! - Diamonds are extremely old, very old in fact, between 1-3 BILLION years old. Diamonds are made of virtually pure crystallised carbon and due to their unique atom structure they are the hardest naturally occurring substance known to man. Diamonds are formed far beneath the Earth's crust and are brought to the surface during volcanic activity by the flow of magma. When volcanoes die, the diamonds are left behind in layers of gravel known as kimberlite, which is later mined. However, this is an extremely rare natural process and because of this, diamond mines can be found in only a handful of sites around the entire world. Once mined, rough diamonds are shipped to the world's cutting centres (Antwerp, Israel, Mumbai) to be cut and polished before being set in fine jewellery. It is the hardness and unique light dispersing properties of a diamond that make them a girl's best friend!

Secondly, a quick lesson in the history of the engagement ring. You may be curious to know where the fashion for engagement rings actually began. Legend has it that it was a lovestruck Austrian called Archduke Maximilian back in 1477, that came up with the idea of giving a ring set with a diamond to Mary of Burgundy to celebrate their imminent engagement. Believing the ancient Egyptian legend that a vein led straight to the heart, he placed the ring on the third finger of her left hand.

The FOUR Cs

Now that you know the reason why you are buying a diamond engagement ring you can do some research to educate yourself on the diamond Four Cs - cut, colour, clarity and carat. All of these factors should be considered in combination when comparing diamonds, but when purchasing diamonds it is important to know that the overall beauty of the stone is influenced first and foremost by the diamond-cutter (the other characteristics are determined by nature alone).

Cut

Of each of the 4Cs it is the quality of the diamond cut (or “Make” as it’s known in the trade) where the diamond-cutter genuinely expresses his skill. Contrary to what some diamond merchants would like you to believe, every single diamond is unique and prices can vary wildly (even if they appear identical on paper) which is why a diamond should always be selected according to the quality of "Make" rather than simply its certificate. As they in trade Buy the Diamond, Not the Cert!

Colour

Diamonds occur naturally in all spectral colours, from red to blue. However, the most commonly occurring colours are yellow and brown. The amount of colour a diamond possesses corresponds to an alphabetical scale beginning with D and ending with Z (the originators of the system began with D in case a whiter diamond was ever found!)

Clarity

Most people get far too fixated about diamond clarity, unnecessarily so. If you were to look into most diamonds with a jeweller's magnifying eyeglass (loupe) you will most likely see some small imperfections known as "inclusions", They may look like small clouds or feathers but most will be invisible to the naked eye. Inclusions can affect the diamond's brilliance and fire but they also make your diamond completely unique, like natures own fingerprint. They shouldn't always be seen as a fault, and why worry about something you can't see? As long as the stone is graded at least SI1 (Slightly Included) or better you will be alright

Carat

The weight of a diamond, as with all gemstones, is expressed in carats. The word "Carat" is derived from the Greek word for the Carob tree. Ancient merchants discovered that the seeds were always uniform in weight and used them for weighing pearls, diamonds and other precious stones. A carat can be is divided into 100 points, so a 1/2 carat stone equates to 50 points, a 1/4 carat diamond 25 points and so on. Very small stones, such as those used in channel and pavé settings, are collectively known as melee. The significance of a diamond's weight, like the other quality grades, is a question of rarity. Out of 250 tons of diamond-bearing ore only a single one-carat diamond of gem quality may be found!

Any reputable jeweller should know about the diamond four Cs and should also be prepared to talk you through them all especially when you are viewing diamonds. When purchasing a Daniel Prince diamond over 1/4 carat it will have already been certificated, assessed, graded and laser-inscribed by an independent gemmological laboratory. The certificate is important, as not all gem labs are universally recognised. The most internationally recognised are GIA and HRD. The price for a independent grading of a diamond will vary depending upon the carat of the diamond, but this will usually be included in the cost of the diamond anyway.

Diamonds are sometime treated to enhance their appearance, usually by being fracture filled, irradiated or laser treated. All of this is perfectly legal, but it is illegal if it is not disclosed to the buyer, At Daniel Prince we only sell 100% natural and untreated diamonds that have been ethically sourced.

How much should you pay for a Diamond?

Often referred to as Fifth C - COST. Obviously, the amount you decide to spend on a diamond ring is a personal matter, but you will no doubt have heard that 3 months' salary is about the norm. I'm not sure where this stemmed from originally, probably from the great De Beers' PR machine. Feel free to spend whatever you feel comfortable with and more importantly, can realistically afford. These are tough times and after the credit crunch we're all having to get used to tightening our belts and saving for that special purchase rather than shoving it on the credit card. One important thing to remember is that De Beers and the Diamond Trading Council (DTC) have a near total and complete monopoly on the entire diamond industry and therefore have a significant interest in what you spend. At Daniel Prince our raison d'être is providing you with an exclusive personal and tailored bespoke service. You set your budget, and we will source the highest quality cut stone just for you.

Get Her What She Wants!

It is perfectly adequate knowing your D from your F, but if you don't end up buying her the right engagement ring design then all could seem lost. One way of finding out what she prefers is the style of jewellery that she may already own. Is it modern contemporary jewellery or more traditional classic and understated? Does she prefer to wear white or yellow gold jewellery? Also, does she ever display an interest in the engagement rings of other women? However, the chances are that you will glean a pretty accurate picture of her likes and dislikes from her friends and family (assuming they can keep a secret!).

More than likely, she will prefer a Tiffany style diamond solitaire - which accounts for around 3/4 of all diamond engagement ring sales - However, there are many ways to present a quality diamond or coloured gemstone in a ring, and thats the beauty of commissioning a custom made engagement ring, we can design something held in Tiffany style claws, held high and proud, or something more contemporary set in a full bezel (enclosed in metal) protected and sitting low. However if you do want to involve your partner in the design of what will ultimately be a unique engagement ring, why not buy the diamond first and present her with it set securely in one our complimentary (yes, free!) 9k white gold mounts.

http://www.hsamuel.co.uk/webstore/static/diamond-buyers-guide/diamond-engagement-rings.do

Diamond Engagement Rings

We have been using diamond rings as engagement rings for hundreds of years and it is a central part of marriage. As a result, buying a diamond engagement ring is a big event in your life. Involving emotional and financial decisions, it is important to get exactly the right ring. At H.Samuel we will do all we can to help you on this journey and find exactly the right ring for you and your partner.

A diamond is also a financial investment, so you want to buy the best diamond that you can afford on your budget.

Take your time choosing your ring. Think through all of the different choices - this is the rest of your life that you are investing in.

Finding the right ring size

When you pop the question it is very important that the ring fits. Imagine getting down on one knee, giving your carefully rehearsed proposal, only for the ring to be too big. Or worse, too small. Here are three tips for finding out her ring size.

Plan A. Download our ring size chart and find out the right ring size by following the easy to use instructions included, either by using one of her rings or measuring her finger size.
Plan B. Be direct and ask her. You might get her hopes up, but then you are going to ask anyway. If you want to be subtle, ask subtly, it's up to you. Think of a way to bring rings up in a conversation and find out that way. Of course there is always a chance that she doesn't know herself, in which case you will need a Plan B, or our ring size chart (Plan A).
Plan C. Take one of her rings to an H.Samuel store and get one of our staff to check the size for you, for free.

Don't panic if you do get the wrong size. If you do find yourself down on one knee and you can't get the ring on, or it is too big, don't worry, we will always change it for you.

Diamond engagement ring - style and design

Once you've determined the size of the diamond engagement ring, it is time to consider the style. Ask yourself the following questions:

Does she like yellow gold or white gold setting? Two colour goldis very fashionable or, for something truly radiant, go forplatinum.
Does she like glamorous jewellery? If so, a stunning diamond three stone ring or a diamond cluster ring would be ideal.
Does she wear simple jewellery? Then maybe an exquisitesolitaire diamond ring is a perfect choice.
Or how about a traditional ring? So why not try a round brilliant diamond shape or a more contemporary princess cut diamond?

If you are unsure, look through her jewellery for tips, ask one of her friends, or simply bring her to one of our H.Samuel stores and see what she is attracted to. Alternatively, show her our website and see what she likes there. It might give it away a little, but at least you will be confident when you propose.

How much to spend?

There is an old tradition that a diamond ring should represent the value of one, or even two months, of your salary. This is not necessary. We recommend that you spend what you can afford and be careful with your finances because you are going to need some of that money for your wedding rings, wedding and future together. Remember, whatever you choose, she will love it forever!

The 4Cs

When you are looking for your diamond engagement ring, it is important to understand the 4Cs, colour, clarity, carat and cut. It is the interplay of these that determines the value and the beauty of your diamond.

So take a look through the whole range of diamond engagement rings available at H.Samuel and you'll find exactly the right ring for you at the right price.

Diamond Cut

Cut is the only one of the 4Cs that is not naturally created when the diamond is in the earth. When a diamond is mined from the ground it is called a rough diamond. It is then cut to make it suitable for jewellery. This gives it its shape and also its brilliance, as the angles and facets (faces) dictate the diamond's shine and return of light.

A diamond can only be cut by skilled craftsmen. It takes years of training and experience to bring out the very best in a diamond. The diamond cutter must appreciate the proportion, relationship and angles of each of the surfaces, known as facets. The craftsman also polishes tiny facets into the rough diamond to create different aspects of a cut diamond such as the crown, culet, table, girdle and pavilion.

Diamond Brilliance

Cut and cutting styles work together to enhance a diamond's brilliance. There are three main cutting styles, each of which has its own facet arrangement:

Brilliant cut.
Step cut.
Mixed cut.

In cutting a diamond to be worn as jewellery even a highly skilled diamond cutter might have to cut away more than half of the rough diamond. However the end result will be a beautiful gem ready to be worn as diamond jewellery.

Sparkling Brilliance

When a diamond is well cut, in good proportion, it will maximise the effect of the light travelling through it, allowing it to be dispersed and reflected from one facet to another. This releases its brilliance, fire and beauty. However, if a diamond is cut too deeply, light will escape through the sides, causing it to appear darker and less brilliant than it might be.

On the other hand, if a diamond cut is too shallow, light escapes through the side or the underneath and it won't be as dazzling. This means that a well-cut diamond is more valuable than a poorly cut one of the same colour, clarity and carat weight.

Forever Diamond

At H.Samuel one of our most popular brands is the Forever Diamond. This stunning diamond has 73 facets, fifteen more than the average brilliant cut diamond, which is why it has so much more brilliance than other diamonds. It is also a minimum I colour and features a minimum clarity of I1.

Diamond Shape

Cut can also refer to the diamond shape, the most popular of which is round brilliant. There are, however, many other diamond shapes available, including princess cut, emerald cut, oval and baguette. For more information see the Diamond Shapes chapter.

You Decide

When choosing your diamond jewellery - engagement rings,pendants or earrings, take a while to consider which cut you want as this will help you get the most dazzling and beautiful diamond for your budget.

Diamond Care

When you spend a lot of money on a beautiful piece of jewelleryyou will, naturally, want to keep it clean.

The cleaner a diamond is the more dazzling its sparkle. Ordinary soaps, moisturisers and oils from your skin can dull a diamond, so why not use one of these methods to keep yours clean?

Ways to clean your diamond

Here are four ways to clean your diamond yourself:

Our cleaning promise: you have a Diamond Privilege card, bring it to any H.Samuel store for your annual free clean and inspection of diamond jewellery that you have purchased from us.
Quick dip method: use our recommended liquid jewellery cleaner to keep your diamond jewellery as brilliant as when you first bought it.
The cold water soak: make a half and half mixture of cold water and household ammonia in a cup. Soak your diamond for 30 minutes. Lift out and use a small soft brush to free anyremaining dirt. Dip back into the solution one more time and then pat dry with a lint free cloth.
The detergent bath: a small bowl of warm suds with any mild liquid detergent. Brush your diamond jewellery gently with a small soft brush in the suds. Rinse thoroughly under water and pat dry with a soft lint free cloth.

Jewellery cleaning products

We offer a range of cleaning products online and in-store for gold and silver jewellery to help you keep your jewellery looking as good as new.

More tips

It is important to ensure that your diamond doesn't come into contact with bleach as it can damage the setting. Don't wear your diamond when doing rough work - even though diamonds are durable, they can be chipped by a hard knock. And don't store your diamond jewellery together as diamonds can scratch each other and other jewellery.

Lastly, make sure that you visit your local H.Samuel store each year to have your diamond jewellery checked for weakened or bent claws.

Your diamond is the purchase of a life time, so it is worth looking after, and we are sure that the above recommendations will give you lasting satisfaction with your diamond jewellery.

http://jewelry.about.com/cs/engagementrings/a/buying_ring.htm

Before we get started, can I be honest with you? The best way to buy her an engagement ring she'll love is to let her pick it out herself. She'll wear this ring every day. It must feel good on her finger and it must suit her lifestyle. Sometimes it takes trying on many, many diamond shapes and setting styles to determine which ring is truly "best."

But you still want to go it alone, don't you? Maybe because you want to surprise her with the engagement ring, or because you don't want her to be involved with pricing and payment issues. That's fine--if you put some thought into it you can buy an engagement ring that she'll love almost as much as she loves you.

Number 1: Pay Attention!

Paying attention to her jewelry likes and dislikes is the first big step towards finding her the perfect engagement ring:

What metal color does she wear now? Most women have a definite preference. If she loves white gold or platinum, don't even look at a diamond or other stone mounted in a yellow gold ring setting.

What style of jewelry does she wear now? Is it contemporary-looking, with bold styling? Does she prefer vintage looking rings? Or would you say that the jewelry she wears is classic, resembling those timeless pieces that never go out of style?

The best indication of her tastes is the jewelry she wears all the time, not items she only wears occasionally, because it's the full-timers that she's most comfortable with.

Number 2: Has She Hinted at her Likes and Dislikes?

Has she ever mentioned her favorite jewelry styles or pointed out engagement rings when you're shopping together? If not, take her shopping. It isn't difficult to steer yourselves towards the jewelry stores. If you want to be subtle, say you're looking for a new watch, but be sure to pause at the engagement ring counters.

Maybe she has a friend who recently became engaged. Does she like her friend's engagement ring? Why or why not?

Does she like diamonds? Some women don't. Sapphires and rubies are both durable gemstones that are often set into engagement rings for women who don't like to wear diamonds.

Number 3: What Looks Best on Her Hands?

An elongated diamond, such as a marquise or oval, can make short fingers look more sleek--but be careful not to overdo the look or it could have the opposite effect.

Wide bands usually make fingers appear even shorter than they are, so think proportional:

Women with long fingers can easily wear bold ring styles.

A setting that's extremely delicate could get lost on large hands, over-emphasizing their size and making the ring look smaller.

Number 4: Choose the Right Shape & Setting

Round diamonds are the number one shape chosen by brides, but maybe not your bride. She might prefer an elongated marquise, oval or pear-shaped stone, or an square or emerald cut diamond. Fancier shapes, such as hearts, are another option.

Do you think she'd like a solitaire diamond, set alone in a band, or would she prefer a cluster of stones? Her current jewelry can give you clues about her preferences.

Number 5: Consider her Lifestyle

How will the ring fit in with her lifestyle? Does she work in a profession where fussy jewelry would look out of place? Even if she doesn't, remember that a pointed gem with high prongscould snag clothing (and people) and is harder to keep clean. Save that type of ring for gifts that will be worn on special occasions, not every day.

Number 6: What's her Ring Size?

Does she have rings that she wears on her engagement finger? Maybe a friend or family member could get hold of one of them long enough for you to have it sized. Of course, you'll have to swear the messenger to secrecy.

Number 7: Consider a Loose Diamond

If you think you know which shape she loves, buy a loose diamond to show her when you ask the big question. The two of you can shop together later for the perfect engagement ring setting.

Now that you have a better feel for the style of ring she might prefer, it's time to consider the diamonds that will go into it. Start with the Four C's, then take some time to browse other topics in Diamond Basics and Engagement Ring Resources. If she's not into diamonds, start with the articles in Colored Gemstones.

ADVICE in funding:

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080417142217AA9Oucj

http://ezinearticles.com/?How-To-Afford-That-Special-Engagement-Ring&id=526083

In order to purchase an engagement ring, if you don't have the money saved for that purpose, you'll either have to save it or resort to financing. Both alternatives are interesting and which one you'll choose will depend on how rushed in you are. If time is a pressing issue, then you'll need to find some sort of financing. Otherwise, you can start saving for the purchase.

When Time Is Not An Issue

When you have enough time to save the money for purchasing a ring, it is a good idea to do so. That way you'll save a lot of money on interests due to financing. Making the necessary adjustments to your budget will help you put a fixed amount apart every month to build up the sum you'll need to purchase that special engagement ring. It's just better to put some money aside every month than waiting to see if there is money left at the end of the month.

The prices of engagement rings are very varied. You can obtain an engagement ring for a price that can range between a couple of hundreds to several thousands dollars. There are of course engagement rings worth a lot more than that but this article is not intended for such eccentricities. According to the price of the ring you'll need to calculate the time you'll need to save the money and thus, the amount you'll have to put aside every month.

When Time Is An Issue

When time is an issue you have no other choice but to resort to financing. There are many different financial products that you can obtain in order to pay for an engagement ring. For instance, if you own a credit card, then, your problem is half solved as you only need to purchase your engagement ring with your card and pay as much as you can of the balance every month to fully pay it off. However, whether the ring is expensive or you don't have enough credit left on your card you may want to try other alternatives.

Unsecured personal loans are an excellent choice, they provide higher amounts that can easily reach ten thousands dollars and they also provide flexible repayment schedules that can last up to five years or even longer. Yet, your choice for an engagement ring may be a bit more expensive. In that case, resorting to a secured loan might be a good idea. Truth is that even for lower price rings (five thousands and up) loans based on equity can provide more advantageous terms like lower rates and longer repayment programs so you won't have to worry about repayment.

It is a good idea to combine some savings with financing to keep things inexpensive if you have the time to do so. Maybe, saving a couple of months and financing the rest of the price of the engagement ring can do the trick.

http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2007/04/27/ask-the-readers-how-much-should-i-spend-on-an-engagement-ring/

http://askthemoneycoach.com/2011/02/engagement-ring-or-you-afford/

For many young couples, there is a certain amount of financial and emotional stress that comes with Valentine’s Day. Among women who are dating, the message they get from family, friends and others is that Valentine’s Day is the time to know if your guy is really into you. They may even start getting some Valentine’s Day proposal ideas. Just as Beyonce sang: “If you like it, then you should’ve put a ring on it,” scores of unmarried women are now telling their men: “If you really loved me, you’d make it official.”

So imagine the stress right now that’s weighing on countless men who feel that they have to pick the right ring and pop the question -– or risk being quickly dropped to “ex boyfriend” status — by this Valentine’s Day. After all, once they’ve been dating for a while, many young couples will naturally have to deal with questions from others about getting engaged and choosing “the ring.”

So “the ring” is definitely being thought about right now — by men and women alike. And not just any old ring. It’s got to be a ring that a woman would be proud to wear and “show off” to anyone who cares to look. While we don’t know exactly how many ring boxes will pop open after a Valentine’s Day proposal, it is a safe idea to assume that most of those boxes had better contain diamonds, and big ones at that.

Real or imagined, the pressure to buy as much ring as he can (or cannot) possibly afford will confront any man who is contemplating Valentine’s Day proposal ideas.

Is one carat respectable? That depends. Some women consider two carats a “starter” ring. Will a three-carat rock do the trick and rock her world? Again, it depends. How many carats did her girlfriends or co-workers get when they were engaged?

All these thoughts and questions loom large for men contemplating a Valentine’s Day proposal.

If a man has taken f-o-r-e-v-e-r to pop the question, the guilt alone may lead him to give his woman a huge “I’m sorry” Kobe-style ring. Or what about guys who currently have kids with their significant others. Those guys are thinking: Should I give a half carat -– or a full carat -– for each child that’s already here?

Well, here’s a reality check for you ladies in waiting: The financial stress of getting that big rock works both ways — impacting both of you equally and lingering with you both over the long haul. So stop wondering, for a moment, whether your man will follow tradition and surprise you with a ring, or whether he’ll simply take you shopping and let you pick a modest, affordable ring that you should “say” you like versus the big, blinging ring you really do want.

Instead, consider this cold, hard truth: No matter what ring you receive as a token of his devotion to you for all eternity this Valentine’s Day, it is a ring that you both will live with hopefully forever, along with whatever bill or debt that your fiance goes into to pay for the ring.

http://www.pebblesjewellery.co.uk/info/jewellery-information/59-how-to-buy-the-perfect-engagement-ring-for-the-woman-you-love.html

ule number 1 - Pay Attention!

The first step to finding the perfect engagement ring is to pay attention to her jewellery likes and dislikes.

What metal colour does she wear?
What style of jewellery does she wear (is it contemporary, bold, vintage or classic)?

The best indications of her tastes in jewellery are the items she wears all of the time, not the items she wears occasionally.

Rule number 2 - Has She Given You Any Hints?

When you have been out shopping together has she ever pointed out engagement rings or commented on the style of jewellery she really likes?

If not then why not take her shopping? It is not difficult to steer yourselves towards the jewellery shops, if you want to keep up the surprise, why not tell her you are looking for a new watch? Be sure to pause by the engagement ring counters.

Some women don't like diamonds so think about what stone she would like. Sapphires and rubies are often set into engagement rings as an alternative.

Rule number 3 - Choose The Correct Diamond Shape!

The most popular diamond shape chosen by brides is round, but perhaps not your bride!

She may prefer an oval, pear shape, marquise, square, emerald or baguette cut stone. Fancier shapes such as hearts are also available.

For more information about diamonds please click here.

Rule number 4 - Consider Her Lifestyle!

Does your bride to be work in a profession where a large or fussy ring would look out of place? Even if she doesn't remember the shape of the stone or setting can have an impact on everyday life.

A pointed gem or a setting with high prongs can snag clothing or even people! These rings are also harder to keep clean and are more suited to be worn on special occasions and not every day.

Finally and perhaps most importantly,

Rule number 5 - Find Out Her Ring Size!

To ensure you buy the perfect engagement ring you will need to know the ring size of your bride to be.

You could do this by getting hold of a ring she already wears on the correct finger or asking a friend or family member to get one for you. You will only need to have the ring long enough for it to be sized.

If you get help from someone else you will need to swear them to secrecy and of course make sure the ring is put back before she notices it is gone!

Lastly, the best piece of advice I can give you is to come and have a chat with one of our friendly members of staff, who will be pleased to give you more help and inspiration.

Good luck!

http://artofmanliness.com/2009/07/01/the-ultimate-guide-to-buying-the-perfect-engagement-ring/

Find the girl who is the “one.” Check. Ask her father for her hand in marriage. Check. Plan the perfect proposal. Check. Buy engagement ring. Hmmmm….. Buying an engagement ring can be an overwhelming task. There’s a lot of pressure on this purchase. It’s a symbol of your love for your girlfriend, and it’s a token of your willingness to take the relationship to the next level. Plus, it doesn’t help that your fiance will be showing off the ring to her friends and family.

For many men, the purchase of their lady’s engagement ring will be their first experience in the the wild world of jewelry. When they walk into a jewelry store they’re inundated with terms and concepts that they’ve never heard before. Tiffany setting? Inclusions? Eternity band? What the wha?

Never fear. We’ve put together the ultimate guide to help you purchase an engagement ring that your girlfriend will flip over. Let’s get started.

Establish Your Budget

First thing you’ll need to do before you step into a jewelry store is establish a budget. It will help the jeweler show you options that are in your price range. Keep in mind that like buying a car, the price of an engagement ring can often be negotiated.

You may have heard that a man is supposed to spend 2 months salary on an engagement ring. This is crap. Hoping to cash in on retuning GI’s itch to get hitched, this “rule” was invented whole cloth as part of a crafty ad campaign by the DeBeers company during the 1940′s. But there’s nothing romantic about going into major debt. Buy the nicest ring that you can afford. In the end, it’s not the amount of money you spend on an engagement ring that matters, but rather the thought that goes into purchasing it. Many women would rather start your life together debt-free or use the money for a sweet honeymoon than have you blow all your savings on some rock.

If you want to propose, don’t delay because you can’t afford a better ring. The ring is supposed to be a symbol of your love, and what does it say about your love that you’re willing to postpone your marriage to buy a better rock? A humble ring will be a memory of that hard-scrabble time when you two were young. You can always get her a nicer ring for an anniversary present somewhere down the line.

Make It a Surprise

The jeweler I talked to noted that he’s been seeing more and more men coming in with their girlfriends to pick out a ring. While letting your wife-to-be pick out the ring she wants will ensure that the ring fits and that she likes it, you’re denying yourself a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to show how thoughtful and romantic you are. Imagine the look of surprise your girlfriend will have when 1) you propose to her, 2) the ring fits, and 3) the ring you picked is exactly what she wanted.

If you can successfully pull off this trifecta of surprises, you will be the subject of envious conversations among your girlfriend’s social circle, your future mother-in-law will say you’re a catch, and men around you will silently acknowledge your achievement. Making the engagement ring a surprise will take some work, but it’s well worth the investment.

This is not to say that surprising her is the only way to go. Some women will insist that they go along with you to pick out the ring. If you’re like me, your wife will already have the engagement ring she wants in her possession. It was an heirloom from her great-grandmother. I just had to pick the ring up from her mom’s house. Just do what you and your girlfriend think is best.

Find Out Her Ring Size

This where a lot of men screw up in the purchasing process. They’ll have the perfect ring picked out, but they get the wrong size ring for their girlfriend’s finger. When they get down on one knee and attempt to slide the ring on their lady’s finger, it doesn’t fit and awkwardness ensues.

If you get the wrong size ring, all isn’t lost. You’ll just have to take the ring back to the jeweler and fork over some more money to get it properly fitted. But it’s best to avoid the cost and the potential embarrassment at proposing time by making sure the ring you pick is the right size.

The best way to get your girlfriend’s ring size is to get a ring that she isn’t wearing and bring it to the jeweler to be measured. If you want to maintain the surprise factor, you’ll have to be sneaky about this. Swipe a ring from her jewelry box while she’s getting ready in the bathroom or recruit one of her friends to pocket a ring while she’s over her house. Try to swipe a ring that you don’t see her wearing very much; she’ll be less likely to notice its absence.

Research Her Style

You want to pick a ring that fits your woman’s unique style and preferences. Getting a ring that she’s over the moon for will score you romance points that will last a lifetime.

Again, because of the clandestine nature of the engagement proposal, you’re going to have to harness your inner James Bond for this style reconnaissance. When you’re with your girlfriend, take note of the type of jewelry she wears. Does she wear a lot of gold? Maybe she’s a silver or platinum woman. Perhaps there’s a particular stone she wears a lot, like her birthstone, that she’d like more than a diamond. Does she like simple, understated pieces? Or does she favor the big, glitzy variety? Think about her personality; is she an outgoing girl who you know is going to want to show off her ring to everyone she meets? Then go for something big and sparkly. Is she an earthy woman, who doesn’t wear much jewelry at all? Look for rings that are simple, yet beautiful.

Another way to get a feel for her engagement ring preferences is to take her right into a jewelry store. The key to this is to go under another pretext. Tell her you need to go to the mall to look for some new shoes and that you’d like her to come along. When you’re walking to the department store, go past a Helzberg Jewelry store and say, “Hey, I want to stop and look at some watches.” While you’re busy pretending to be interested in the Omegas, dimes to donuts your gal will be looking at the rings. Look at what she’s gazing at. Make a mental note of it. Say something casual like, “That’s a nice one,” and gage her reaction. Go back to looking at watches. Leave. Mission accomplished.

Pick The Engagement Ring Band

You have a variety of metals to choose from for the engagement ring’s band. The most common include yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, platinum, and silver. You can even do a mix of different types of metals.

Each metal has their advantage and disadvantages. For example, platinum is an extremely durable metal and will last a long time. However, it dulls much more quickly than gold, and it’s harder to bring back the initial luster it once had.

Gold, on the other hand, is shinier than platinum, and because it’s a soft metal, it’s easier to buff and polish it to get back the ring’s original luster. Gold’s advantage over platinum is also its weakness. Because it’s a soft metal, gold wears down faster. In about 15 to 20 years, the engagement ring may have to be reshanked because it’s worn too thin.

While you may be interested in the durability of the engagement ring band, your future wife is probably more interested in the way it looks. Right now, silver-looking engagement rings are the most popular. If your lady is a woman who stays on top of the latest fashion trends, go with a platinum or white gold band.

If she’s more of a classic type of gal, go with the traditional yellow gold band.

Selecting a Quality Diamond: The Four C’s

So you’ve selected a band. We now move to the focal point of most engagement rings: the diamond. For many men, purchasing a diamond can seem like a daunting task, but with a bit of knowledge, you can walk out of a jewelry store with a stone your fiancee will be dying to show off to her friends.

When selecting a diamond, you’ll want to take into account the “4 C’s:” cut, color, clarity, and carat weight. All four of these factors determine the quality and cost of the diamond.

Cut. Cut doesn’t refer to the shape of the diamond, but rather the angles and proportions of the stone. While nature determines the other three C’s, the diamond’s cut is determined by a cutter. A well cut diamond reflects light from one facet to another and projects the light through the top of the stone. This is what gives a diamond its sparkle. Diamonds that are cut too deep or too shallow leak light through the bottom or the side of the stone, resulting in a lackluster appearance.

Out of all the four C’s, cut is the most important. Even if you have the perfect color, clarity, and carat, if the cut isn’t right, the diamond won’t have that fiery brilliance that your fiancé will show off to her friends.

Color. To many men’s surprise, diamonds come in a variety of colors. Diamond color is graded on a scale that ranges from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow). Truly colorless diamonds are the most rare and most expensive. White color diamonds are the most popular. But when it gets down to it, diamond color is all about preference. Look back at your notes from your ring reconnaissance to see what your lady prefers.

Clarity. The fewer imperfections a diamond has, the more clear, and consequently, more expensive it is. When the jeweler starts discussing the clarity of the diamond, he or she will probably mention the diamond’s “inclusions.” Inclusions are other minerals or tiny fractures in the diamond. The fewer inclusions the better.

Like color, clarity is measured on a scale. SI1 and SI2 are slightly included but you won’t be able to see the imperfection with the naked eye. Try to find a diamond in this range.

When looking at a diamond, avoid stones with inclusions on the top and in the middle, as this can impact the dispersion of light, making it less brilliant.

Carat Weight. Carat refers to the weight of a diamond. The heavier the stone, the more you’re going to pay. However, there’s no need to get to caught up on the carat weight. Through proper mounting and shaping, a master jeweler can make a diamond appear larger than its carat weight might suggest.

Selecting the Diamond Shape

In addition to the four C’s, you’ll also want to take into consideration a diamond’s shape. The shape of the diamond is all a matter of your girlfriend’s preference. Below, we list a few of the possible shapes you can get a diamond in:

Round

A round diamond is the classic and timeless diamond shape.

Princess

The Princess is a square diamond and is the most popular shape for engagement rings right now.

Pear

Oval

Heart

Choose the Setting

A ring’s “setting” refers to the way in which the diamond is placed on the the ring. Like everything else with an engagement ring, which setting you pick depends a lot on your girlfriend’s preferences. You can actually create combinations of different settings if you want. Here’s a quick primer on the different types of settings, so you’re not completely clueless when you walk into the jewelry store.

Tiffany setting

Introduced by the jewelry company that bears the name. It’s a timeless and classic look.

Eternity band

Instead of a single diamond, an eternity band has diamonds that go all around the ring.

Bezel setting

A metal rim that encircles the sides of the stone and extends slightly above it. The rim can stretch around the diamond’s entire circumference or around only a portion of it. A bezel setting holds a diamond securely, and the low, protective profile it creates makes a bezel setting a good choice for women with active lifestyles.

Channel setting

In a channel setting, the diamond or diamonds are placed into a metal channel. It can be used as an accent to a main diamond that’s set on a prong.

Pave’ (pronounced Pa Vay)

This setting consists of lots of diamonds placed close together.

Alternatives to Buying a Diamond Ring

Most women want a traditional diamond ring. But not all do. After all, the idea that engagement rings must be diamond rings is a modern invention, a marketing ploy by the DeBeers company. Diamonds are not in fact rare or special. They are expensive merely because the DeBeers cartel has succeeded in controlling both supply and demand. Not wanting the diamonds to ever be resold, and needing people to buy the heaps of diamonds they were sitting on, they sought to imbue the jewels with romantic meaning and social status. Launching a full-press campaignin 1938, the company sought to convince Americans that “A diamond is forever” and the only acceptable way to express your love. In reviewing their advertising strategy in 1951, the DeBeers ad agency noted:

“The millions of brides and brides-to-be are subjected to at least two important pressures that work against the diamond engagement ring. Among the more prosperous, there is the sophisticated urge to be different as a means of being smart…. the lower-income groups would like to show more for the money than they can find in the diamond they can afford… It is essential that these pressures be met by the constant publicity to show that only the diamond is everywhere accepted and recognized as the symbol of betrothal.”

And so it was that DeBeers succeeded beyond their wildest dreams in convincing both men and women that the size of the diamond was directly proportional to the intensity of their love. Rather crass when you take step back, isn’t it? Today a man may sometimes postpone his proposal until he can afford a proper diamond ring. All because of an ad campaign.

So why not break the mold and buy something else? How about her birthstone or some other colored gem that reminds you of her? Of course, if you are going to bust out something other than a diamond when you propose, you better be damn sure that your girl is okay with it. A lot of women have been dreaming of a diamond ring, and their heart will sink when you open the jewelry box to reveal a ruby. So check with her first.

If you’re just generally not keen on blowing a big wad of cash on a ring, ask both sides of the family if there is an heirloom that could be passed on. As I mentioned above, Kate’s mother-in-law gave me her great-grandmother’s ring. It fit like a charm, Kate loves that it has some history, and we were both giddy that we got it for free.

Insuring the Engagement Ring

An engagement ring is both a financial and sentimental investment. Because of this huge investment of money and emotion, it might be a good idea to insure your girlfriend’s engagement ring in case it’s ever lost, stolen, or damaged. Even if you and your wife decide not to replace the ring, you can at least take the cash and go on a romantic getaway. You have a few options when you insure an engagement ring:

Homeowner’s/Renter’s Insurance. Many homeowner’s/renter’s insurance policies allow you to add the value of expensive items, like jewelry, to your coverage. However, make sure to check the policy to see what is actually covered. Often homeowner’s/renter’s insurance will only cover an engagement ring if it was stolen or damaged by tornado or fires. If your wife loses her ring while cleaning the toilet, you’ll probably be out of luck with this option.

Actual Value Policies. An actual value insurance policy will pay you the value of the ring minus its depreciation from use. So, say if the ring you bought cost $2,000 and your wife loses it five years after you tied the knot, the insurance company may only pay you $1,500, taking into account the five years of wear and tear on the ring. Because actual value insurance policies don’t pay back the full value of the ring, they’re the least expensive option.

Replacement Insurance Policies. This policy will refund to you the market value of the ring you bought. So if you bought an engagement ring with a gold band and a diamond that was cut perfectly and had impeccable clarity, the insurance company will pay you the current going price for a ring like that. This could mean you’ll get more money than what you originally paid on the ring due to the appreciation of gold and diamond prices.

Your jeweler should be able to lead you to some reputable insurance companies. The Chubb Group and Jewelers Mutual are two such companies.

The Engagement’s Off. Can I Get My Ring Back?

Sadly, not all engagements work out. Perhaps it was the stress of picking out dishes for your new home, or maybe your fiancee gives you the “it’s not you, it’s me” line. However it ends, there will be one issue that you’ll have to resolve before you and your former true love go your separate ways: ownership of the ring.

United States contract and property law states that an engagement ring is a “conditional gift,” meaning the ring becomes the irrevocable property of your girlfriend on the condition that she actually marries you. If the engagement is called off and you don’t get married, you have a legal right to demand the ring back. In most states it doesn’t matter who broke off the engagement. It could be her or even you. As long as the engagement is broken off, you have a legal right to the ring. But some states will look to who actually called off the engagement to determine who gets the ring. If it was you, and you live in an “at fault” state, you could be out a couple thousand dollars.

Be careful about proposing around Christmas or her birthday, though. A vindictive ex-fiancee could argue that the ring wasn’t actually a “conditional gift,” but rather a normal holiday gift that becomes irrevocable once you delivered it to her. I’m not sure how successful she’d be with this argument, but it never hurts to be too careful.

Thursday, 1 December 2011